Learning from Ladakh
(formerly 'The Farm Project')
Immersion in a Traditional Culture
As part of its work in Ladakh, ISEC has organised a month-long experiential education programme which includes a four-week stay with a Ladakhi farming family and five days of group workshops: two at the beginning of the session, one in the middle, and two at the end. Participants in this programme will have an opportunity to immerse themselves in an ancient culture that is under threat. Ladakh, or "Little Tibet", is one of the world's last remaining traditional cultures where the connection to nature is still deep and communities still retain some of their strength. But globalisation and the consumer monoculture have made rapid inroads into this remote corner of the Tibetan Plateau. Participants will gain a deeper understanding of this process of change, and the economic, environmental and psychological costs of the global economy. They will also learn about the positive effects of strengthening local culture, community and knowledge and about inspiring initiatives both in Ladakh and around the world
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Tradition
Ladakh, or "Little Tibet", is a wildly beautiful desert region high in the Western Himalayas. Villages are composed of anything from a few houses to more than one hundred, set in emerald oases in a rugged, mountainous desert, at altitudes ranging from 10,000 to 14,000 feet (from 3,000 to 4,300 m). Ladakh is a place of few resources and has an extreme climate, yet it was home to a thriving culture for more than a thousand years. Traditions of frugality and co-operation, coupled with an intimate knowledge of the local environment, enabled the Ladakhis not only to survive, but also to prosper. The local economy and culture served people so well, in fact, that hunger, crime, pollution and ethnic conflict were traditionally all but unknown.
Traditional agriculture in Ladakh was based on human labour, animal power and hand-made tools. Fields were irrigated with glacial meltwater and fertilised with human "night soil". Families also tended small vegetable gardens and sometimes apple or apricot orchards, and kept a few animals, such as, goats, sheep, mules and dzo (a cross between a yak and a local breed of cow). The technologies were simple, yet in the four months between the spring and autumn frosts, the Ladakhis produced more than enough food for the entire year. In most years, there was even a sizeable surplus of grain that could be traded for salt, tea or jewellery, and made into gallons of chang, the local beer.
Ladakh was no utopia, but by almost any measure its traditional culture was extremely successful. It was ecologically sustainable, and just as important, people were supported by strong family and community bonds that provided a deep sense of psychological security.
Change
For the last three decades, Ladakh has been increasingly exposed to modern influences brought on largely by tourism and economic "development". The results have been mixed at best. In the capital, Leh, a range of consumer goods is now available in most households have a television and most men and children wear Western clothes. For many Ladakhis, life is becoming less physically demanding. However, modernisation is undermining the very foundations of the traditional culture and giving rise to a familiar pattern of devastating environmental and social problems.
Ladakhi agriculture has been hit particularly hard. Subsidised food trucked into Ladakh over the Himalayas is often cheaper in the bazaar than food grown five minutes walk away. Local agriculture now seems "uneconomic", and many Ladakhis are abandoning their farms in pursuit of paid jobs in Leh or outside Ladakh. Children who once learned from relatives and neighbours how to grow barley at 4,300m (14,000 feet), and how to build a house, tend animals, and recognise useful plants and herbs, are instead sent to Western-style schools where the curriculum ignores Ladakh's culture and local resources. Trained only as urban consumers and producers most are left "educated" but unemployed.
Villagers are now flocking to Leh in search of the few scarce jobs available, leading to a population explosion in the city. Soulless concrete "housing colonies" sprawl further and further into the desert, while the thin air is being choked by diesel fumes from the trucks and buses that now pour into the capital every day. Rubbish of all sorts piles up in the streets and on open dumps; in many places, once-pure water supplies are unfit to drink. In the "modern" economy being created by global economic forces, women are increasingly marginalised. Traditionally women in Ladakh enjoyed remarkable high position, being at the centre of every household and involved in all decisions. The few paid-jobs available now are generally filled by men, while the women are left behind to do the agricultural work that was once shared by both. Even as their workload has doubled, women's status has fallen: the traditional Ladakhi farmer, once the backbone of the economy, is increasingly considered backward and irrelevant, an impediment to progress.
Faced with often overwhelming psychological and emotional pressures to conform to an urban consumer society, many Ladakhis have become insecure and confused about their own identities. They feel inferior about their physical appearance, clothing, lifestyle and lack of "education" and money. They now routinely compare themselves with a glamorised media version of the Western, urban consumer. As a result, people who were once proud to be Ladakhi now think of themselves as impoverished, primitive and inferior.
However, very encouragingly, over the last five years or so, there is a counter trend emerging as more and more Ladakhis are beginning to regain cultural esteem. The semi autonomous regional government is now also promoting organic agriculture and renewable energy. ISEC's work over the past three decades has contributed to these trends and the 'Learning from Ladakh' project forms an important part of these initiatives.
Globalisation, "Development" & "Progress"
The tension between traditional and modern, between the global economy and diverse local economies is not just taking place in Ladakh, but is, rather, a process that can be detected virtually everywhere on Earth. It is often assumed that this tension is confined to the poor countries of the South. But the changes that we call "development" in a Third World context are termed "progress" when referring to industrialised countries. Whatever the term, though, the underlying forces at work are the same, and the impact of such economic change has a similar effect on diverse local cultures and ecosystems around the world. Even in the industrialised West there are still remnants of a past culture in which our economic activity was more local and small-scale, the pace of life much slower, and a sense of community much stronger and even these remnants are under threat. Myths about the South are often used to make people in the North accept the whole process of rapid economic change in their own societies. The problem of increasing unemployment in industrialised countries is a good example. People in the North who are concerned about rising unemployment and the flight of jobs to lower-wage Third World countries are often criticised for their nationalism or chauvinism, the idea being that moving jobs to the South reflects a trend towards a more equitable distribution of the benefits of the global economy. While this argument is used to stifle criticism of the "job-flight" phenomenon, the supposed benefits this process brings to poor countries is a myth. The reality is that this job flight is having detrimental effects on both rich and poor countries alike people in industrialised countries lose their jobs, while more and more people in rural parts of the Third World are having their traditional means of livelihood undermined and are forced to seek paid work in the city, work for which they will not even receive a living wage. Most of the benefits go to elites in both North and South, and the gap between rich and poor continues to widen. Transnational corporations are the main institutional beneficiaries. Able to change production locations at will, they roam the planet in search of the countries with the cheapest labour and weakest regulatory laws. Furthermore, government policy at every level has increasingly facilitated this trend towards globalisation and the free-flow of capital. Vast sums of tax revenue go towards the reinforcement and expansion of infrastructures that favour large-scale economic activity, and international trade agreements continually erode hard-won regulatory laws designed to protect citizens' health and safety, local communities and the environment.
A hopeful alternative
From the earliest years of Ladakh's sustained exposure to the West, the International Society for Ecology and Culture (ISEC) has been working to counter these destructive trends in the region. We helped found several NGOs, including the Ladakh Ecological Development Group (LEDeG) and the Women's Alliance of Ladakh (WAL). We have sought to inform Ladakhis about the high price other cultures have paid for "development". This work has included reality tours to the West for many Ladakhis, seminars and conferences, radio programmes, dramas, and even a comic book. Through such initiatives, we have brought information to Ladakh that would otherwise have been unavailable. At the same time, we have highlighted the many positive initiatives around the world that are working to promote more sustainable ways of living. Together with the local NGOs, we have demonstrated an alternative to conventional development, one that builds on the foundations of the traditional culture. This includes a range of appropriate technologies, solar water and space heating, greenhouses, ram pumps and small-scale hydropower, all of which are adapted to Ladakh's traditional community structures and sustainable economies, rather than creating dependence on scarce, polluting fossil fuels and volatile international markets. We have also founded handicrafts programmes that enable people to earn a subsidiary cash income during the winter, when there is no agricultural work. This allows rural Ladakhis to satisfy some of the new "needs" created by development, without abandoning their villages and farms. We are now working on setting up a local food network aiming at strengthening local agriculture economy, by creating better links between local producers and the local market.
The Family-Stay
In 2009 the 'Learning from Ladakh' Project will operate over two months.
Month 1 - from 1st to 31st July
Month 2 - from 1st to 31st August.
An orientation begins each session, and you are expected to attend. You should plan to arrive in Ladakh at least two or three days before, in order to give yourself time to rest and adjust to the altitude. Also, you should be aware that travel to Ladakh, and in India in general, can be fraught with delays (especially in the busy summer season when flights are extremely full and sometimes cancelled). Therefore, in addition to acclimatisation time, it is a good idea to give yourself several extra days (on either end of your stay) for the unexpected. This means that including travel and acclimatisation time, you should plan for a minimum of five weeks in total. Placements in the families will occur in the two days following the orientation..
The work ranges from helping with agricultural tasks - tending animals, weeding, irrigation, harvesting crops - to lending a hand in maintaining the household - for example, cooking, cleaning, and fetching water. The amount of work varies, from family to family, from village to village. Depending upon when you participate, and what altitude your house is situated at, the work can take up anywhere between 10 to 40 hours each week. The general trend is that there is not much farm or fieldwork to do in July and early August, when the only crops that may be ready for harvest are garden vegetables. Mid August is when the alfalfa harvest, and barley harvest in some villages, or picking apricots, begins in earnest. The pace of work (except at peak harvest time), whether in the fields or in the household, is usually very leisurely, with frequent breaks throughout the day. No farming experience is necessary, although you should be flexible, willing to learn, and in good health. You don't have to be particularly strong, but you need to have stamina: at 12,000 feet (3,700 m) or more, under the intense Ladakhi sunshine, even routine tasks can seem strenuous.
Choosing you starting date
As described above, the amount of work available varies enormously throughout the growing season. If you wish to have the time to experience a broad range of Ladakhi culture (for instance, visiting the village monastery, hiking up to the high pastures) then July is the better option. The disadvantage is that the main jobs available are weeding the garden and household chores. For most families the harvest starts in mid-August, continuing into September, so if you want to work hard in the fields, you should come for August.
Please note that much of your workload may depend on your initiative to work. Some families are still reluctant to ask participants to work, while with other families you may be asked to work very frequently - maybe so much that you'll need to ask for a rest! Don't worry, however, as points such as these will be addressed by the ISEC staff during the orientation sessions.
Participating in 'Learning from Ladakh' is a rich and rewarding experience, but it is not always easy. Part of the challenge will be attempting to communicate across cultural and linguistic divides that can be quite wide! In some cases, there will be English speakers in the household, while in other cases, only Ladakhi will be spoken. Some participants have reported feeling isolated and lonely, although there will always be other Project participants in your village. In any case, don't worry too much, Ladakhis are renowned for their good humour, easy-going nature and understanding.
Each participant will have a different experience of this project. Try not to have any idealised expectations about the how it will be and keep in mind that this is a threatened and changing culture, not an idyllic and untouched area. You will be faced with some difficult realities, such as pervasive commercialism, and young people's disinterest in, and even disdain for, agriculture and their own traditions. Without sounding too discouraging, we do want to stress that there is no way that we can fully prepare you for the Project - in the end, the most important thing you can bring is an open heart, an open mind, an attitude of acceptance and a willingness to adapt to the Ladakhi way of life.
'Learning from Ladakh' Project Workshops
The family-stay is interspersed with three group workshops, which provide a forum for participants to:
1. Learn more about the global economic forces which are affecting Ladakh and other indigenous cultures, and explore how these same forces are affecting participants' lives and communities back home;
2. Discuss the various local alternatives to economic globalisation, as well as the ways in which participants can work in their own communities to implement and strengthen such alternatives;
3. Share their experiences and the challenges they face while in Ladakh. This has proved extremely valuable for past participants, giving them the information they need to put their experiences in perspective.
4. Learn basics of Ladakhi language and have cultural and linguistic introduction by local ISEC staff.
Whereas the family-stay experience is individualised, the workshops are focused on group interaction. This mainly involves discussion, sharing experiences and some practical group exercises. These activities are designed to help participants integrate their own personal experience in Ladakh with the wider political, economic, ecological and cultural issues surrounding it. Through the Project, ISEC is attempting to provide a holistic educational experience. We see practical, intellectual, nature-based and emotional learning as equally important components of a complete and enriching educational experience. The family-stay itself provides the experiential and nature-based aspects, while the workshops are designed to complement and deepen this, both intellectually and personally. To help establish a common starting point for these workshops, you are expected to have read Ancient Futures: Learning from Ladakh, by Helena Norberg-Hodge (available at half price from ISEC), before embarking for Ladakh. It is a good idea to do so before even deciding to participate in the programme, as the book can give a much better idea about what to expect. We also hold meetings with members of the Women's Alliance of Ladakh (WAL) throughout the summer. These meetings offer the opportunity for Project participants and Ladakhi women to share their perspectives about development and change in Ladakh.
We end every Project month with a dinner and party. This is a chance for participants to spend time together, share music, poetry or song, and just generally have a good time!
Community building
ISEC attempts to foster a close relationship between participants and encourages interaction and sharing, not only during workshops but also through cooking together, playing music and spending time in nature. We urge participants to bring musical instruments or songs with you when you come. And don’t worry if you’re an amateur — the more inclusive and participatory it is likely to be.
Responsibility
Health
We must emphasise that, while in Ladakh, you are not the responsibility of ISEC. It will be up to you to organise health and travel insurance, and to check with your doctor regarding any necessary immunisations. However, although we cannot claim responsibility, this does not mean that you will be alone if you have problems. There are both traditional and western forms of health care, and a hospital in Leh, as well as a clinic that analyses stool samples. ISEC staff will help you find what you need, and will provide support if you are feeling unwell. We definitely recommend that participants speak to their physicians about any health concerns prior to joining the Project.
Some people have difficulty adjusting to the altitude in Ladakh, and even need to return to lower elevations. This generally has nothing to do with age or previous health problems, but more to do with not resting and hydrating enough on arrival. Again, you should give yourself AT LEAST two to three days to acclimatise in Ladakh, prior to starting the project. Intestinal problems are also common, and can be persistent, though they are usually not serious. If you have any physical disabilities or limitations, it is very important that you make us aware of them when you apply, so that we can speak to you personally about how this may affect your involvement in the Project. We do not discriminate against applicants who have physical limitations, but it is important for you to be fully aware of possible hardships before making your decision. For example, if you have bad asthma, or are very overweight or unfit, this may be a serious problem when doing manual labour at a high altitude.
Political instability
Ladakh neighbours Kashmir, which is a politically volatile region. While actual danger is minimal, ISEC cannot make any guarantees, and it is your responsibility to inform yourself about the area and make travel decisions accordingly. Although the situation has improved recently, we urge participants not to travel to Ladakh via Kashmir. It may be wise to inform concerned friends and family that the Western media tends only to pick up the ‘bad news’ about Jammu and Kashmir (the state where Ladakh is located), thereby giving the impression of constant war and hardship. The media also does not distinguish between the different parts of the region, which are separated from each other by tall mountain ranges. The effect of skirmishes on the border are rarely felt in central Ladakh (where all the family-stay villages are located). However, because of problems in the region, you should expect to see a sizeable Indian army presence in Ladakh (particularly around Leh).
Costs and practicalities
Firstly, project participants are responsible for
their own travel expenses and arrangements, both to and from Ladakh and
for accommodation and food while in Leh. This includes days to acclimatise
before the start of the project, and the five workshop days spent in Leh -
two at the beginning of the month, one in the middle and two at the end.
Remember that you need a valid passport and an Indian visa.
The fee for the year 2009 Learning From Ladakh Programme is £350/US$600.
The income from participant fees covers approximately one half of the
running costs of the Learning From Ladakh Programme and ISEC subsidizes
the rest through fundraising. Host families are paid a daily rate to cover
the costs of having a participant stay with them.
Forming a Network
Once the project is over, we encourage participants to stay in touch with each other and with ISEC. The growing Farm Project network can be a wonderful resource for those people who wish to take positive, action in their own communities back home.
Returning home
We hope that you will not simply view your stay as an interesting vacation or a unique intercultural experience, but will use your new-found knowledge and understanding to inform your own life. There are many ways to get involved in your own community, whether one wants to try to change government policy, work at the grassroots in one's own community, or start a career in "development" overseas. Whatever the form of activism, we feel that a deeper understanding of the forces that underlie the spread of the global economy, and the knowledge of its impact worldwide, is absolutely essential.
To Apply
The number of participants that can enter the programme each month is
limited, and because there is a great deal of interest in the project, we
are selective. To be certain you will have a spot in your desired month,
please send in your completed application form as soon as possible, as
they are reviewed on first come, first serve basis. To request a Learning From Ladakh application, please contact infoUK@isec.org.uk, or infoUSA@isec.org.uk if you reside in North America.